Murcia: Chocolate from the monks and a visit to La Morenica
The Chocolate de la Luz can once again be purchased from monks in the mountains outside Murcia
Here's an enjoyable morning out which is suitable for those who enjoy a spot of sightseeing and a good view, as well as for those who enjoy a not too taxing walk with good views, up in the regional Park of El Valle y Carrascoy which covers the mountainside behind the city of Murcia.
Driving up into this wooded area visitors arrive first at the Sanctuary of La Fuensanta, which is well worth stopping off to look inside the sanctuary, taking particular note of the fabulous painted Cúpula, the work of Pedro Flores, showing a characterful Romería with the Virgen de la Fuensanta who normally resides in the sanctuary. She descends down into the city below twice a year, accompanied by thousands of people who walk the 7km either into, or back from, the centre of Murcia. Anyone can join in and it really is an enjoyable experience.
The sanctuary is surrounded by gardens and woodlands and also has a terraced café with fabulous views right across Murcia City and the valley below.
After a coffee, drive out of the back of the sanctuary and head up the hill for 1.7 kilometres. Walking this is also a popular option: 1.7 kilometres each way through the woods surrounding the sanctuary.
On the right, after 1.7km, you’ll arrive at the hermitage of La Luz, which has a new tourist attraction: the brotherhood of the Hermanos de la Luz has returned to its centuries-old tradition of selling chocolate after a break of 46 years.
The origins of the “Chocolate de la Luz” date back to 1429, when the Concejo (Town Hall) of Murcia granted permission to Pedro Busquete, one of the monks who lived in the hillside, to use the “Agua de Fuensanta” spring water. This effectively allowed the religious community to stay in the area, and approximately a hundred years later the monks were allowed to build their first small chapel. In the 18th century, by which time they were well established in the Iglesia del Eremitorio, they were allowed to sell brooms, honey, olives, bread and chocolate, which they made by hand.
At that time the monks used the fruit of the carob tree, which they ground and cooked according to their own recipe to produce what was known as “poor man’s chocolate”. Little by little, though, they adapted their recipe to include cocoa instead of carob beans, and eventually they produced the best known chocolate in Murcia.
In 1969, however, EU requirements regarding the modernization and standardization of production processes found the Brotherhood short of the funds needed in order to do so, and production stopped. When the last surviving Brother died approximately ten years ago the Iglesia del Eremitorio was taken over by Colombian monks belonging to the Order of Guadalupe who adopted the Brotherhood of La Luz, and the new occupants of the Monastery and the Church have now decided to resume their practice of selling chocloate.
The new Chocolate de la Luz, which is sold in two varieties (dark and with milk) is not the same as the old artisan recipe, and is now made outside of the monastery using artisan techniques, but even so it is a revival of the historic tradition which existed within the regional park of El Valle and Carrascoy.
The chocolate can be bought from the Monastery during the opening hours of 10.00 to 13.30 and 15.00 to 20.00.
Regardless of buying products to support the monastery, this area is a wonderful place to spend a morning out and those with energy to spare can carry on for another couple of hundred metres and reach the Centro de Visitantes La Luz, where they can visit the exhibition inside the centre explaining the hugely significant relevance of this site, which was occupied two and a half thousand years ago by the Iberians.
They built an important sanctuary here dedicated to the Earth Goddess Demeter, where they could ask for favours to be granted: good crops, healthy livestock and children.
Visitors to the centre can visit the exhibition, then climb to the top of the site and enjoy a meal, snack or drink in another restaurant with a fabulous view.
There are plenty of walks to enjoy around here and the area is very popular with Murcian city dwellers, so if you fancy a bit of chocolate made by the monjs or just want to enjoy a morning in this beautiful location looking over the city, then head for the hills on the outskirts of Murcia and the park of El Valle y Carrascoy.
Click for more information: Hermitage of La Luz Murcia
