Date Published: 04/11/2024

What to do in San Juan de los Terreros, the magical coast between Murcia and Almería

Explore Andalucía’s beaches, stunning rock formations and nearby islands just across the border from Murcia

Nestled on the cusp of Andalucía and Murcia, San Juan de los Terreros is a coastal gem in Almería’s municipality of Pulpí.

Known for its idyllic beaches and impressive volcanic islets, this town has transformed from a summer escape for locals to an international attraction, offering beaches, scenic hikes, historical sites and one of Europe’s most spectacular geodes.

Here’s a guide on how to make the most of a visit to this unique corner of Spain.

Top things to do in San Juan de los Terreros

1. Enjoy the beaches

San Juan de los Terreros boasts some of Almería’s most beautiful beaches, particularly along with the Cabo de Gata region, offering a mix of untouched coves and lively promenades.

Playa de los Cocedores beach

Straddling the border between Almería and Murcia, Playa de los Cocedores (also called Cala Cerrada) is a sheltered horseshoe-shaped beach. Known for its calm, shallow waters, this beach is relatively quiet and ideal for families. Historically, it served as a natural workspace for esparto grass workers, who left traces of their work carved into the cliffs.

Playa de las Palmeras beach

Just a short walk from Los Cocedores, Playa Las Palmeras is an unspoilt beach named after the lush palm trees that line its sands. With over a kilometre of pristine beach, it’s perfect for a quiet day by the water.

Mar Rabiosa and Mar Serena beaches

These two adjoining beaches offer contrasting experiences. Playa de la Mar Rabiosa, more exposed to the waves (hence its name, which translates to ‘Raging Sea’), is lively and centrally located next to the seafront promenade.

Nearby, the Playa de la Mar Serena (‘Serene Sea’) lives up to its name with calm waters and golden sands, a family-friendly option with a promenade and all the amenities one might need. At the end of Mar Rabiosa, you’ll find the wooden bridge leading to the islet of Pichirichi, one of San Juan’s iconic landmarks.

Playa de la Entrevista beach

Renowned for its geological formations, Playa de la Entrevista features fossilised dunes and untouched landscapes. A sandy path winds through native nard vegetation, making it an excellent option for a quiet beach day or a gentle jog.

These are just a few of the beaches you can visit in San Juan de los Terreros, but there are lots more to discover.

2. Hike up to the castle

The Castle of San Juan de los Terreros, perched on a hill overlooking the town, is an 18th-century fortress built to defend the coast during the reign of Charles III.

This historical site offers sweeping views of the surrounding coastline, with a virtual tour available to explore the Pulpí Geode, an extraordinary natural formation nearby.

3. Explore hiking trails

For hiking enthusiasts, the town council maintains several well-marked trails in the area:

Sendero La Geoda: A 5.2-kilometre linear trail that leads to the Pulpí Geode, this route is perfect for those wanting to explore geological wonders.
Sendero Los Nardos: This easy 3-kilometre trail runs along the promenade and through Playa de la Entrevista, named for the beautiful nard flowers that dot the landscape.
Sendero Los Cocedores: Covering 4.8 kilometres, this trail leads to Playa de los Cocedores. Some sections of this route are challenging due to steep cliffs, but ropes are available along certain parts to help you.

4. Dive or snorkel around the volcanic islands

The volcanic islets of Isla de Terreros and Isla Negra, designated as a Natural Monument, are home to thriving marine life, including seabird colonies and underwater meadows of oceanic posidonia.

For those looking to explore the vibrant seabed, snorkelling or diving is highly recommended. Even beginners can enjoy spotting fish close to shore, while kayaking or paddleboarding are also popular options.

5. Sample local seafood

San Juan de los Terreros still retains much of its fishing heritage, making it an ideal spot to enjoy fresh seafood in one of the many local beach bars and restaurants. From fried fish to seafood paellas, there’s something for every palate.

Some of the most typical dishes from the area include Migas con tropezones (hearty breadcrumb mix, pictured), Ajo colorao (garlic-based dish) and Arroz con habichuelas (rice with beans), while there are also local pastries to try such as the rich ‘Torta de manteca con chicharrones’ cake.

6. Visit the Geode of Pulpí

A short distance from the town lies one of the region’s most remarkable natural attractions, the Pulpí Geode.

Discovered by miners working in the Mina Rica, this geode is Europe’s largest and is open to visitors. Its interior is lined with huge gypsum crystals, creating a stunning spectacle.

Visits need to be booked in advance, which you can do online, and tickets cost 22 euros per person, with discounts available for seniors, families and those with disabilities.

How to get to San Juan de los Terreros

From Almería: Take the AP-7 motorway to the Pulpí / San Juan de los Terreros exit.
From Murcia: Take the A7 to Lorca, then follow the motorway to Águilas before heading towards San Juan de los Terreros.

Where to stay

San Juan de los Terreros offers a variety of types of accommodation, from family-friendly resorts to quieter options for solo travellers and couples.

Nearby Águilas, in Murcia, is another good option for those with a car, offering additional lodging choices and attractions.

You might also like: A guide to discovering the hidden natural treasures of the Almería’s caves

Images: Ayuntamiento de Pulpí / Junta de Andalucía

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