The hidden castle of Lanzarote that tells a story of hunger, hope and art

San José Castle in Arrecife is a symbol of survival, creativity and cultural pride

Tucked into the cliffs of Puerto Naos, overlooking the Bay of Arrecife in Lanzarote, sits a castle with a past as dramatic as the island’s volcanic landscape. San José Castle, often missed by tourists, is one of the island’s most symbolic landmarks - and its story is as much about survival as it is about strength.

Construction began in 1776, during the reign of King Charles III, and finished three years later. At the time, Lanzarote was struggling through the aftermath of devastating volcanic eruptions in the Timanfaya region (1730 to 1736) and a prolonged drought that left many islanders in crisis. The castle was designed to serve a dual purpose: to defend the coast from pirate attacks and to provide desperately needed employment for the local population.

That is why locals came to call it the "Fortress of Hunger" — a name that speaks volumes about its role in supporting the community during one of its most difficult periods.

In 1949, San José Castle was officially recognised as a Site of Cultural Interest. Architecturally, it stands out for its D-shaped structure, with curved sea-facing walls, a moat, two defence turrets, and a drawbridge at the rear. Volcanic stone was used to build it, giving the fortress a uniquely Lanzarotean character.

The inside of the castle is just as impressive. What were once barrel-vaulted storerooms and a gunpowder magazine are now home to the International Museum of Contemporary Art (MIAC). The museum offers a surprising contrast between the castle’s austere walls and the vibrant modern art on display, where visitors can explore bold modern art exhibitions in an atmospheric historical setting. The space maintains its sense of simplicity and strength while offering something completely unexpected.

Although it was originally built to fight hunger and protect the island, San José Castle went on to play a vital role in Lanzarote’s economy and has become one of its most treasured cultural and tourist landmarks. It stands today as a powerful reminder of resilience and renewal. It may not appear on every tourist map, but for those who visit, it offers a powerful insight into the spirit of the island.

Image: lapping/Pixabay

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