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In the heart of Córdoba, it’s easy to see why the caliphs (Islamic rulers) of Al-Andalus chose the city as their capital back in AD 711. The narrow, winding streets, reminiscent of bustling souks (traditional Middle Eastern markets), and the smoky scent of shisha drifting from the many bars, make the city feel more like a sun-soaked Middle Eastern medina than a European city. These paths, steeped in history, are silent witnesses to a story of Islamic influence that stretches back more than a thousand years.

 

Many might believe that Islam’s integration into Europe is a modern concept, but Córdoba has long been a crossroads of cultures. In fact, its Islamic roots go far deeper than most European nations. One of the most significant Islamic traditions in the world, Ramadan, first found its way into Europe right here in Córdoba. It was the first city to observe the fasting month in an organised way, setting the stage for Muslim practices across the continent.

 

The city became the heart of the Islamic empire in Western Europe after the arrival of Arab and Berber armies from Damascus, a mere 100 years after the founding of Islam. This wave of conquest saw Córdoba flourish as a capital, growing to a population of over 300,000 at its peak in the 10th century. Over the next 780 years, Al-Andalus, the Islamic nation, blossomed from this base, shaping the culture and history of much of the Iberian Peninsula.

 

The influence of this period is still visible today in the city’s food and architecture. The tasting menus offered in Córdoba feature a unique blend of Moorish and modern Spanish influences. Dishes such as salmorejo, a cold tomato soup, echoes the flavours of tomato rice soup common in Arab cuisine. Honey-soaked aubergine evokes the flavours of baba ganoush, a beloved Middle Eastern dish. Other dishes, such as flamenquín (like a lighter version of falafel), reflect Córdoba’s ability to balance tradition and innovation.

 

Arguably the most iconic symbol of this cultural mix is the Mezquita, Córdoba’s grand mosque-cathedral. Covering an astonishing 24,000 square metres, this structure defies easy description. Begun in AD 785 by Abd al-Rahman I, it was designed to rival the grand mosques of Damascus and Baghdad. But after the Christian Reconquista in AD 1236, the mosque was transformed. A cathedral was inserted in the heart of the mosque, complete with an altar and a bell tower.

 

Today, the Mezquita is a stunning physical representation of the city’s dual religious heritage. Rows of 856 marble and jasper pillars, some repurposed from Roman and early Christian structures, stretch across the mosque’s interior. But at its heart sits the cathedral, with intricate marble statues of saints and Catholic figures. This juxtaposition of Islamic and Christian elements creates a complex atmosphere, where two faiths coexist within the same space.

 

Despite its beauty, the Mezquita has become a source of tension. As a working Catholic cathedral, Muslims are prohibited from praying in the mosque-like parts of the structure. This restriction has sparked protests and even led to clashes between the two communities. The Mezquita, like Córdoba itself, remains a living example of Spain’s complex and intertwined cultural and religious history.

 

For visitors, the city offers more than just a historical journey; it’s a chance to witness how two great religions, cultures, and histories have not only coexisted but shaped each other for over a thousand years.

 

 

Images: cordobaturismo